When the governor entertains at his Albany mansion this holiday season, his guests will be sipping Long Island wine.

Only the "best" wines in New York State will be served, and those have been selected by the discriminating judges at the annual New York Wine & Food Classic. This year's competition, held Aug. 2-3 at The Inn at East Wind in Wading River, put the spotlight on Long Island Wine Country. The region not only served as host but collectively earned nearly 150 medals.

This was the first time in the Classic's 19-year history the event took place on Long Island. Judges from all over the country and even the United Kingdom had the opportunity to experience the region as well as the wine. Two dinners were held at Martha Clara and Pindar vineyards in addition to the Governor's Cup Luncheon at The Inn, where the winners were announced. All featured locally grown produce and wines.

Praise was abundant as was frequent comparison to Napa, Cal., the host of last year's Classic. The Napa Valley is considered the home of American wine's "big league," according to Jim Trezise, president of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation, which organizes the Classic.

"This is a fledgling industry making tremendous progress," said judge Jerry Pellegrino, chef and owner of Baltimore's Corks restaurant. "It reminds me of Napa Valley in the '70s -- it started off with a bunch of guys growing grapes in their back yards. I'm very encouraged. I think this will be a world-class region in 10 to 15 years."

Mr. Pellegrino and 23 other judges participated in a blind tasting of a record 636 entries that included the strongest Long Island showing ever. Over 200 wines were submitted from 31 Long Island wineries and judges gave 10 entries double gold, 18 gold, 61 silver and 89 bronze. Double gold distinction meant that each judge on a panel of four agreed a wine deserved gold.

Paumanok Vineyards in Aquebogue was named the state's "Winery of the Year," a distinction earned by the number and level of medals received.

Since the Governor's Cup Luncheon was held only a few miles away from their vineyards, Mr. and Ms. Massoud along with their sons were able to accept their award in person. Mr. Massoud credited the soil, "spectacular" weather and his family for Paumanok's success. He also threw a bouquet to former governor and part-time Shelter Island resident Hugh Carey, who was honored at the luncheon. "Without you, none of this would be here," Mr. Massoud said.

The New York Wine & Grape Foundation gave Governor Carey a crystal decanter in appreciation of his role in creating the Farm Winery Act of 1976, which enabled New York wineries to afford the license fees to go into business. Mr. Carey complimented Long Island Wine Country by likening it to France's Alsace region.

A month after the event, Mr. Trezise recalled the 2004 Classic as "a grand slam in the ninth inning of the World Series." He was impressed by the hospitality on Long Island, he said, particularly by the Long Island Wine Council, the Long Island Farm Bureau and the individual wineries.

"I'm very happy that more Long Island wineries entered more wines, because you can't win unless you enter," he said.

The successful results boosted enthusiasm for the Long Island Wine Classic held in Bridgehampton on Aug. 28, according to LIWC's events and public relations coordinator Krista Zilnicki. "It's a good way for consumers to gauge our wines with other New York wines and those produced elsewhere," she noted. "The results, especially the 'Winery of the Year' designation, show the consistency and quality of Long Island winemaking.

The New York Wine & Food Classic's reputation has grown considerably since the event's inception in 1985, said Mr. Trezise, who has judged many wine competitions and incorporates the best of each into the Classic. "What has changed in the Classic is the same as what has changed in the industry -- both the quantity and quality of the event itself," he said.

"We have a much bigger event, more judges, more wines and more prestige," the president added. "In terms of quality, the Wine Classic has grown as an event, not just a competition, and it has been recognized across the country as being among the best in the world."

AND THE WINNERS ARE ...

How do you win top awards for your wines?
Cross your fingers for sunshine, harvest ripe grapes, work hard in the cellar fermenting, racking, aging and bottling the wine -- and then get lucky. That's the advice of Long Island winemakers whose wines were singled out this year as the best of over 600 entries in the New York Wine & Food Classic.

"It was one for the home team," said Charles Massoud, referring to the Winery of the Year award won by Paumanok Vineyards in Aquebogue. Taking home the big award made Paumanok -- a low-key, sophisticated yet unpretentious kind of place -- an overnight sensation and boosted sales.

Another big win for Long Island was Jamesport Vineyards' 2001 Cabernet Franc, named best overall in the red wine categories. Cabernet franc is a softer red than cabernet sauvignon, and is usually seen playing second fiddle in red blends.

Many believe merlot is the star of Long Island. The grape grows well here, unlike sunshine-hogging cabernet sauvignon or finicky pinot noir. In a pleasant surprise for Comtesse Thérèse owner Theresa Dilworth, her 2002 Hungarian Oak Merlot was awarded best merlot.

While Long Island is known to produce superior reds, Long Island wines took top awards in a few white wine categories, too. The Peconic Bay Winery 2001 La Barrique was named best barrel-fermented chardonnay in the show. Winemaker Greg Gove proved that he knows how to balance a full-style chardonnay with just enough oak, so that it tastes like Long Island chardonnay and not the woodier California kind.

Bedell Cellars also gained an unusual but welcome distinction with a Best in Show for its 2003 GewÜrz-traminer from Corey Creek Vineyards. The cool-climate grape is definitely an upstate stronghold, and this is the second year in a row Bedell has won in this category.

All told, winning one or more double gold medals were Bedell Cellars, Comtesse Thérèse, Jamesport Vineyards, Martha Clara Vineyards, Palmer Vineyards, Paumanok Vineyards, Peconic Bay Winery, Ternhaven Cellars and Wölffer Estate.

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