Wine is sunlight, held together by water,' " quoted Steven Bate, the new LIWC executive director. "Galileo said that, and as I look at the sea and the vineyards everywhere, that saying comes to mind. This area is so beautiful, and to be out here and a part of it is just amazing."

Bate has been visiting wineries and meeting the people who make Long Island wine happen. Bate took the position this summer, moving here from his native Connecticut after over a decade of working in Europe and Manhattan. He's made a career of talking to business owners about their goals, facilitating communication, and representing their interests to various governments. Now, he's applying these skills to help put Long Island Wine Country on the map of the world's great wine regions.

"We thought he would be a good fit with this crazy bunch we call the wine council," said LIWC president Marco Borghese, of Castello di Borghese Vineyards and Winery. "If I can use the word, I think he's cool!"

At 45, Bate is indeed cool, in an understated way. He's friendly and enthusiastic when he talks about the stuff he loves, like skiing off-piste, cooking, or drinking wine. Yet his diplomacy will come in handy guiding the at-times volatile LIWC members.

"I've sat with Bosnians and Serbs at the same table, so I'm prepared," he said, laughing. "I have to sit down with all the members and hear their priorities, needs and objectives. Then we can develop a strategic plan."

In broad terms, certain goals are pretty much agreed upon. First, the council's $200,000 annual budget, collected from dues, isn't a lot to work with. Funding exists through federal, state and private sources, and Mr. Bate intends to tap into them. With added resources, the council can launch a sophisticated marketing effort that is necessary for the growth of the industry.

"We need to target the trade and new customers," Bate said. "It's also important to promote tourism to Long Island Wine Country."

As for Long Island wine itself, he said he's very impressed.

"I think the wine is ready for national and international recognition," he said enthusiastically. "The quality is definitely there."

And Bate is well-qualified to make that judgment; he is passionate about wine.

While working in Paris, he tasted his way through the wine regions of France, Italy and Germany and he realized that if he had the chance to take his work experience to the wine world, he'd jump at it. Now he's in the position that he dreamed about.

"I'm getting e-mails from friends and business acquaintances all over the world, saying they knew I'd end up doing something with wine, that this sounds so perfect for me," he said.