MARCO BORGHESE

Our organization, the Long Island Wine Council, is focused on finding the ways and means to promote our wineries and vineyards, and for them to succeed beyond the East End. And so many of my messages to date have been directed toward achieving those goals.

This time, allow me to stay home and talk about the people who make up the Council, my fellow vintners. Almost every article ever written about this region starts with, "In 1973, when Alex and Louisa Hargrave planted grapevines on potato fields... yada, yada." But that was only the beginning. Today, 31 years later, we have become an industry over 30 wineries strong and growing. We feed and help other local industries succeed by attracting tourism and recognition to our area.

Yet we are quite a diversified group, from varied backgrounds to be sure, but with one common denominator: a genuine love and deep commitment to our job -- and each one of us with so many jobs to do: We have to be able to produce the best possible product under constantly changing circumstances, such as weather; we have to be farmers; and we have to be business-minded marketers and promoters, as well as improvisers. Most of us are hands-on, practical people who cannot afford lots of help. Of course we each have an ego, as any artist would, yet we understand that for the region to succeed it may be necessary to think for the industry and forget our own immediate gratification and needs.

We also have to deal with many misconceptions about us, the most common one probably being that we are so rich we can afford to give away our wine. Even though everybody is willing to pay for food and services, nobody seems to expect to have to pay for wine. Yet we are primarily small producers in an expensive region.

Another misconception is that we are elitist, or snobs, I guess. Although the industry we represent does happen to be considered glamorous all over the world, the people who make up the industry tend to be anything but. I talk often to all the owners and their spouses, their winemakers and vineyard managers and tasting room staff and salespeople, you name it. We are not elitist, rest assured.

Finally, consider all we are accomplishing: We help preserve farming and open space in the area, while we are conscious of improving the environment and the water supply. We make a product that should already, and one day undoubtedly will, make New York proud. We have helped make this region a destination for everyone from day-trippers to long-term visitors.

Let's have a little wine and a big toast to all of us!

Marco Borghese is co-owner of Castello di Borghese, Cutchogue.

Back to front page