![]() Main Road, Cutchogue - 734-7537 Owner: Michael Lynne Hours: Daily, 11-5 Winemaker: Kip Bedell Established: 1980 Acres: 30 www.bedellcellars.com The purchases of Bedell Cellars, Corey Creek Vineyards and Wells Road Vineyards by Michael Lynne, co-CEO of New Line Cinema, signal the further transformation of Long Island's wine industry to professional producers of world-class wines. The Bedell Cellars group now includes three vineyards, two tasting rooms and one winery. Bedell Cellars founder Kip Bedell continues as winemaker and oversees all operations. Bedell is consistently ranked as the North Fork's premier producer of Merlot and one of the best in the U.S. When Food & Wine singled out Long Island as one of America's "most dynamic new wine regions," Bedell was featured front and center. Since 1985, the winery has consistently won awards and high praise. Bedell strives to maintain its standard of quality by consistency in viniculture and viticulture techniques and optimizing variability in vintages. Mr. Bedell's reputation as a winemaker begins with his reds, and his colleagues on the North Fork have dubbed him "Mr. Merlot." BIDWELL The three Bidwell brothers, Bob, James and Kerry, have more or less grown up with their vineyard, which the family planted after moving to Cutchogue from Huntington to join the burgeoning wine industry. "We thought we could make some well-crafted wines and have a nice life out here," said Bob. Four years later, they bottled their first vintage. They've since drawn praise from experts such as Howard Goldberg of The New York Times, and others. The brothers say the North Fork produces wine grapes of unique and superior quality. Their goal is to produce small quantities of super-premium, handcrafted wines that express the unique characteristics of the region while reflecting their own singular style. They also want their wines to be known for their good value. Though the vineyard has remained small by design, a handsome new tasting room added a few years ago makes an elegant statement on Route 48. BROADFIELDS When English settlers first arrived on the North Fork in 1640 they found large, open meadows known as the Broadfields, which had been farmed by a native population. Robin and Karen Meredith are proud to be part of that rich agricultural heritage on their estate vineyard, Broadfields Wine Cellars, producing handcrafted wines that reflect their land's unique characteristics and their artisanal approach to grapegrowing and winemaking. They say "great wine is made in the vineyard," and thus harvest their ripest and most flavorful fruit. Their exclusive focus is Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and their first releases came from the 2001 vintage's classic growing season. Production was about 650 cases and is expected to increase to 1,300 cases in 2003. Wines are made at Premium Wine Group in Mattituck and can be tasted and purchased at The Tasting Room, a rustic multi-winery facility that opened in May. CASTELLO di BORGHESE he vineyard that founded the Long Island wine industry is now under the stewardship of Ann Marie and Marco Borghese. Mr. Borghese, whose noble Italian lineage dates back to 9th century Italy, combines a winemaking heritage and business acumen that complement Mrs. Borghese's marketing and promotional expertise. Together, and with significant help from longtime winemaker and North Fork native Mark Terry, they are achieving new levels of success in producing wines of the highest distinction. This commitment was recently recognized with an 8th consecutive Wine Spectator Critic's Choice Award. (See Shop Talk for new releases.) The winery's tasting room has been enlarged and a wine patio added. These enhance enjoyment of the many art events and other functions held at Castello di Borghese. CHANNING DAUGHTERS The philosophy here is to give back to the community through the beauty of art, wine and land preservation. Through the cooperative efforts of the Peconic Land Trust and Walter Channing, the grapevines are grown on land permanently protected from development. Mr. Channing purchased the property in 1980 as a place of sanctuary to produce his artwork. His wood sculptures are discreetly displayed around the winery and vineyards to give people the feeling of space, beauty and fun. The winery's labels also reflect this creativity. Molly and Walter Channing named the winery after their daughters: Nina, Sylvia, Isabella and Francesca. Winemakers Larry Perrine and John Witherspoon believe in quality, not quantity. This is the only L.I. winery to produce only "Vineyard Designated" wines. These grapes produce exceptional wines but in a very limited release. Now only its Wine Club members can have access to some of them. COREY CREEK Joel and Peggy Lauber bought a vineyard in 1993, intending to sell grapes to local wineries. Then they tasted their incipient chardonnay and fell in love. Thus was born the Corey Creek label. New York Times wine expert Howard Goldberg christened Corey Creek "Rookie of the Year" and "Golden Touch Vineyard," for its chardonnays and merlots. The original vineyard was 18 acres; there are now 30, with chardonnay, merlot, cabernet franc, gewÜrztraminer and pinot noir grown. There's no winery, but there's a charmingly rustic tasting room nestled among the vines south of the Main Road. Corey Creek's wines are produced by top winemakers at various East End wineries. That collaboration has resulted in such accolades as the gold medal for their '97 Merlot and silver for their Reserve Chardonnay at the NY State competitions. The Laubers have sold Corey Creek to Michael Lynne, a motion picture executive and new owner of Bedell Cellars. However, they will oversee the sale of wines already made or in progress until Jan. 1, 2001.
DUCK WALK Vineyards Duck Walk is the third incarnation of this chateau-style winery on Montauk Highway. As they say, the third time's a charm. Dr. Herodotus "Dan" Damianos, a Stony Brook internist who also owns Pindar, took over the bankrupt, state-of-the-art Southampton winery in 1994 and replanted its neglected vineyards. In 1996, Duck Walk bought 30 acres of mature vines in Mattituck and began making wine. The varieties planted at Duck Walk, which have since matured, are new to Long Island and include pinot gris, muscat and pinot meunier. A popular wine at Duck Walk is Blueberry Port, made from Maine's wild mountain blueberries, aged for a year in French oak, then a year in the bottle. Duck Walk's Merlot Reserve recently won several gold medals, including a double gold at the NY Wine Classic. Dr. Dan himself received the NY Wine and Grape Foundation's '98 Unity Award, and his son Jason, now the winemaker at Duck Walk, distinguished himself at U.C. Fresno while earning a degree in oenology and viticulture. GALLUCCIO Family Owned by Vince and Judi Galluccio since August 2000, Galluccio Family Wineries is now practicing natural grape-growing techniques. The idea that a great wine starts in the vineyard is undoubtedly not new; however, this concept is put into practice every day at Galluccio. The care that goes into tending the vineyards demonstrates this philosophy. From the use of as many natural products as possible within the vineyard to natural yeasts in the winemaking process, the owners believe they can make truly outstanding wines without manmade chemicals. These practices are used as much as possible, not only to preserve the earth but also to ensure the natural beauty of the wines, and to capitalize on the characteristics specific to Long Island grape growing. "It was not a hard decision," said Vince Galluccio. "We are stewards of this land. It is a precious resource." The winery is available for private functions, including weddings and other special events.
JAMESPORT Jamesport Vineyards is a collaboration between father and son, Ron Goerler Sr. and Ron Jr., who started out selling fruit from their 60-acre Early Rising Farm in Cutchogue. The original vineyards were planted in 1981, making them some of the oldest on the North Fork. Additional plantings of cabernet franc and sauvignon blanc brought the total planted acreage to 40 until spring 2001, when about 20,000 new vines were put in, using a tighter installation technique. This is the winery's sole source of grapes, making it one of the area's only estate wineries. Jamesport continues its quest to produce world-class wines and has won gold medals at the NY Wine & Food Classic, the Dallas Morning News wine competition and other events. Jamesport Vineyards' wines also continue to earn high ratings from The Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator. The 150-year-old barn that contains the winery and tasting room combines a blend of old-world charm and new-world technology. The winery is available for private functions and hosts free live music. LAUREL LAKE Vineyards Laurel Lake Vineyards is a harmonious blend of old and new: It is one of the oldest vineyards on the North Fork, and one of the newest wineries. The vineyard was planted in 1980 and has yielded highly praised chardonnays ever since. Using fruit purchased from other North Fork growers, Laurel Lake also produces merlot, cabernet sauvignon, Lake Rose and Windsong (a summertime blend of white wines). The 6,000-square-foot winery was constructed in 1997. It includes a tasting room highlighted by an antique, landmark bar; a gift shop with varied and unique items; and an expansive deck with picnic tables overlooking the vineyard. Laurel Lake regularly schedules live music, tours and special events that are appropriate for the entire family, children included. LE CLOS THÉRÈSE Theresa Dilworth is an international tax attorney during the week and an aspiring player on the international wine stage on weekends, when she personally conducts and oversees all vineyard operations and winemaking. In addition to growing its own grapes (first harvest fall 2003), Le Clos Thérèse procures grapes from other LI producers and makes wines under the Comtesse Thérèse label. The goal? "To produce the finest expression of Long Island's terroir and gain recognition on an international level, while offering good value to consumers," says Ms. Dilworth. Mainly cabernet sauvignon has been planted on a well-drained site with the highest density of any commercial vineyard in NY. Winemaking is characterized by the use of cultured and indigenous yeasts, and a high proportion of new French oak barrels. Wines are made at Premium Wine Group in Mattituck; tastings and sales are at The Tasting Room in Peconic. LENZ WINERY Lenz is one of the oldest wineries on the East End. It was founded by restaurateurs from Westhampton, who achieved notable success and then moved on to other interests. For the last decade Lenz has been in the hands of English-born Peter Carroll and his wife, Debbie, who already had a vineyard in Mattituck. Their first act at Lenz - hiring Eric Fry as winemaker - proved the wisdom of their wine ways. Eric, along with vineyard manager Sam McCullough, set about revitalizing the vineyards. Their meticulous attention to the vines, with a different program for each variety of grape, has paid off handsomely. In a professional blind tasting held in New York City, Lenz Barrel Fermented Chardonnay tied for first place with a $230 bottle of Louis Latour white burgundy, and Lenz merlot ranked ahead of Chateau Petrus, also $230. Other blind tastings continue to confirm Lenz quality. LIEB CELLARS Mark and Kathy Lieb met on Wall Street and quickly discovered their common passion for wines. Pursuing their dream, they bought their first vineyard in Cutchogue in 1992 and recruited horticulturist Ray Hines (Kathy's brother) as vineyard manager. They soon established a reputation for growing high-quality grapes for local wineries. With 50 acres and some of the most mature vines on the North Fork (the oldest block planted in 1982), the stage was set for them to produce their own wines. In 1999 they offered the first wines from their vineyard bearing the Lieb label. In 2000, in partnership with Russell Hearn and Bernard Sussman, they opened the Premium Wine Group (PWG) in Mattituck. The only custom-crush facility on the East Coast, PWG offers state-of-the art wine production services to the region. Since the 2000 vintage, all Lieb wines have been produced at PWG, where the Liebs' modern tasting room is also located. Lieb wines are available at some of the finest restaurants and shops in NY, VT, NH, MA and NJ. MACARI The Macari family has owned land on the North Fork for almost 40 years. In 1994, a unique tract extending from Sound Avenue to the Sound bluff was chosen as the heart of the Macari estate and its Tuscan-style winery. It was identified as highly suitable for premium wine growing and was extensively prepared for planting. The vineyard now enjoys a continuous regime of composting, cover-cropping and nourishment. The Macari approach is characterized by an uncompromising focus on fruit quality and balanced yield, evidenced by close vine spacing and tireless nurturing of the vines and the soils that bring them to life. Since the release of its first wines, Macari has enjoyed consistently high praise. Bergen Road, a Bordeaux blend, just became New York State's Best of Show and Best Red Blend in the Food & Wine Classic. It had already won silver in the International Wine & Spirits Competition in London, ad did Macari's '97 Cabernet Franc. Macari wines have been served at the White House on several occasions.
MARTHA CLARA The Entenmann family farm, formerly home to thoroughbred racehorses, has been transformed into a new family business: wine. 87 acres of classic European grape varietals have been laser planted where polo fields and horse paddocks once stood. Treating this new venture as a learning experience, the family decided to plant 25 additional acres of varieties that have fared well, such as syrah, and experiment with new ones, such as pinot grigio. Chick's Farm, across from Hallockville Museum Farm, was recently purchased by the family. They plan to open a tasting room in June 2001 in what was a roadside farmstand. On weekends, visitors will be able to enjoy horse-drawn carriage rides through the vineyard and horse farm. Martha Clara's wine is being made at Premium Wine Group, a new custom-crush facility in Mattituck, by Roman Roth of WÖLFFER Estate and Gilles Martin, formerly of Roederer Estate in California. Wojtek Majewski is vineyard manager. Production has more than doubled to nearly 10,000 cases, and a second label, Glaciers End, is due out this summer. MANOR HILL Owners Bill and Theresa Ackermann have focused their efforts on growing grapes such as merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and others, that produce elegant red wines that appeal to diverse palates. They believe that superior viticultural practices and astute attention to detail in the vineyard are the secrets to producing world-class wines. All the fruit is closely monitored for maximum ripeness and then carefully handpicked. The grapes are then fermented in small lots to extract the most subtle of flavors and hand-blended to the highest quality and standards. The Ackermanns established their vineyard in 1998 in Cutchogue and currently manage 30 acres of some of the oldest vines planted in the region. At Manor Hill Vineyards they operate under the belief that the vineyard is "where fine wine begins." THE OLD FIELD The only bayfront vineyard/winery on L.I., The Old Field Vineyards is on the first land farmed by the first settlers in 1640, and by Native Americans for hundreds of years before that. After more than 400 years in traditional agriculture, the first vineyard was planted on "The Old Field" -- from 1660 historical records -- in 1974, during the advent of vinifera grapevine plantings on L.I. A second block was planted in 1986. Oceanographer Chris Baiz, the 4th generation of his family to farm these lands, led the transformation, fulfilling a vision he had at age 7 that he'd one day run the family farm. In 1996, he and his wife, Ros Phelps, purchased "The Old Field" from family members. They planted merlot, cabernet franc and pinot noir. From these grapes, they and their children, Perry and Ryan, are crafting premium red and sparkling wines. The owners, whose motto is, "Wine -- Discover the Knowledge!", are planning to have a fully integrated winery and tasting room by 2006. OSPREY'S DOMINION Osprey's Dominion is a joint venture of two Long Islanders: Bud Koehler and Bill Tyree, who named the winery after the majestic fish hawk that graces our summer skies. The vineyard itself boasts some of the oldest vines in the region. The winery's focus on maximizing varietal character and minimizing handling of the wines has paid off in creating a line of wines that have won more than 65 awards nationally and internationally. Wine Spectator (June 1999) identified the 1997 Reserve Chardonnay as the highest-rated chardonnay on Long Island, and said of the 1995 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, "Fans of oak will love the flavors of sweet chocolate, vanilla and toast in this plush red." Bill and Bud attribute the success of these wines to a concerted team effort by the entire Osprey's crew. The tasting room overlooks some of the winery's oldest vines. A patio, gazebo and expansive lawns add to the Old-world charm. PALMER Vineyards The winds of Hurricane Gloria, though they ruined a third of the crop, ushered in Palmer's first estate-made vintages, and it's been onward and upward ever since. Palmer is the most-awarded winery on the East End, garnering too many golds and double golds to list in this space. The most recent gold medals were for the '97 Select Reserve Red, the '97 Cabernet Franc and '99 Select Harvest Gewürztraminer. Palmer wines are poured in 23 states and five foreign countries, including China -- a first for a Long Island winery. Owner Bob Palmer, a former ad man whose fascination with winemaking began with visits to the Napa Valley, is the marketing genius behind the winery's renown. The genius behind the wine is Tom Drozd, a Long Island native who has been with Palmer for more than 10 years. The tasting room is done up as an old-style British pub, with authentic 18th-century furnishings. The deck is spacious, and tours are free. PAUMANOK Vineyards Paumanok, the Indian name for Long Island, is a mix of Old World wisdom and New World technology. Charles and Ursula Massoud's vineyard was the first locally to employ dense European spacing and single-trunk vines. In the cellar, French oak barrels contrast with stainless steel. Charles was born in Lebanon to a family of hoteliers and restaurateurs, and Ursula in Germany to a family with a long tradition of winemaking. A mutual love for fine wine led them to the North Fork. Paumanok wines are served at the White House and at four-star restaurants in New York City. In the January 2000 issue of Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate -- Mr. Parker has been called the most influential wine writer in the world -- two Paumanok wines tied for highest score on the East Coast: the 1995 Tuthills Lane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and the 1998 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc. Both scored 89+. Paumanok also received the Wine Spectator's PECONIC BAY Winery Ursula and Paul Lowerre were attracted to the traditional farm setting, retail location and mature diversified plantings available when they decided to purchase Peconic Bay Vineyards in January 1999. The efforts of the new management team -- including general manager Matt Gillies, winemaker Greg Gove and viticulturist Charlie Hargrave -- have yielded regional, national and international recognition over the past two years. Of particular note was the double-gold medal for Best Chardonnay at the 2000 New York Wine & Food Classic. Peconic Bay bested 57 contenders in winning unanimous support from16 judges. The winery recently received final site-plan approval for its proposed 15,000-square-foot tasting and sales facility. Groundbreaking is expected this spring at the Main Road, Cutchogue, location. New additions to the winery staff include marketing coordinator Mary Ellen Ruhf, sales representative Sue Lorenzo and graphic artist Shana Heatley. PELLEGRINI Vineyards Bob Pellegrini's graphic design background can be seen in every element of Pellegrini Vineyards, from the clean lines and classic proportions of the winery to award-winning wine labels. Bob and Joyce, a retired schoolteacher, bought the former Island Vineyards in 1991. Having mature vines allowed them to soon bottle their first vintage, with award-winning results that continue. Australian-born winemaker Russell Hearn credits the owners' commitment to quality and willingness to cede responsibility to others. Pellegrini employs dense vine spacing and careful canopy management. The spotless production center, partly open to view, combines high-tech stainless steel and computers with Old World oak-barrel aging. The philosophy is minimal manipulation, with many wines left unfiltered to retain integrity of the fruit. Newly planted merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc vineyards ensure that Pellegrini Vineyards will long supply quality wines. PINDAR Vineyards Named for the Greek poet Pindar (500 B.C.), Pindar Vineyards was established in the heart of North Fork wine country in 1979. The winery, located in a potato barn dating back to the 1840s, is the hub of activity at Pindar. Take a comprehensive educational tour -- perhaps even say hello to the winemaker. Weather permitting, you can visit the vineyard, where it all begins with the planting of the grape. On summer weekends, enjoy live music in the Pavilion-in-the-Vineyard. See the old potato-cellar barrel room, where red wines rest quietly in oak, and the state-of-the-art bottling line. Dr. Dan Damianos wants to introduce as many people as possible to the joys of wine. Pindar is the largest local vineyard and produces the most wine. Along with chardonnays, cabernets and merlots, Pindar makes proprietary blends and sparkling wines, and grows some uncommon grapes, such as gamay beaujolais and sangiovese. The winery continues to add to the numerous prestigious awards it has earned over the years. PUGLIESE Vineyards Pat and Ralph Pugliese "retired" to Cutchogue in 1980. They had a couple of acres to spare, so Ralph planted grapevines, thinking he'd sell the grapes to the new wineries. But he'd been making wine with his father and uncles since he was 10, and the temptation was too great. Pugliese is one of the smaller vineyards, and the family likes it that way: small and friendly. Ralph has been known to take unsuspecting guests on an impromptu tour of the champagne cellar, and Pat hand paints the champagne bottles. The tasting room walls are graced by the stunning local landscape photography of Ralph Jr.; the mustards, gourmet oils and salad dressings in the gift shop are made by daughter Dominica. Some unusual wines are made here: sparkling merlot, for instance, and a late-harvest wine made with a native New York grape, niagara. Recent awards include a silver medal for its '99 Raffaello White Port in the New World International Wine Competition. RAPHAEL Raphael is dedicated to the production of one wine every vintage: Merlot. The vineyard and winery team brings over 65 combined years of experience. In consultation with one of the world's most renowned winemakers, Paul Pontallier of Chateau Margaux, Raphael aims for the ultimate expression of the North Fork's soil and microclimate. All Raphael wines are estate grown and bottled; it is one of very few estates on the East Coast to hand-harvest 100% of its crop. Raphael's wines reflect the regional terroir and the spirit of a great chateau: attention to detail and devotion to quality in every aspect of grape growing and winemaking. The winery opened in July 2001 and produces 5,000 cases a year. Italian monasteries inspired its Mediterranean design and it incorporates New World advances and Old World traditions. SCHNEIDER Vineyards This spring, Bruce and Christiane Schneider will finish planting their 22-acre estate vineyard, whose primary focus will be producing a cabernet franc-based proprietary red wine. To that end, they will be planting four different clones of cabernet franc, several of which have never been planted on the North Fork. They will also plant merlot, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and malbec for blending. Once the vineyard is in full production it will produce about 2,000 cases of wine each year. Adds Ms. Schneider: "We feel that the vineyard site we have selected, planted to the proper plant material, will enable us to make a cabernet franc-based wine that will continue to show why this is one of the best regions in the world to grow this variety." Schneider Vineyards will be the westernmost winery on the North Fork and therefore the closest to New York City. The Schneiders searched for two years before choosing the former potato farm selected for its soil, topography and climatic conditions, all of which are ideal for cabernet franc. A tasting room is in the planning stages. SHERWOOD HOUSE After several years of producing grapes for others, Sherwood House Vineyards brought its debut 1999 Chardonnay to market in June 2001. It earned international praise and the highest ranking of any non-California Chardonnay by the Beverage Tasting Institute. Merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petit verdot have since been planted on 38 acres of former corn and potato fields, under the guidance of vineyard master Steve Mudd. The 2000 Merlot won a gold medal at the Governor's Cup. Wine is made at Premium Wine Group in Mattituck. Sherwood is owned/operated by Dr. Charles Sherwood Smithen, a NYC cardiologist, and his wife, Barbara, a vintage-jewelry dealer. Their circa-1860 farmhouse and land appear on their French-inspired label. To the couple, vineyard life is a boundless passion they hope to share with those who taste their wine. As a 1930s poster in their home proclaims: "Buvez du Vin et Vivez Joyeux!" (Drink wine and enjoy life!) TERNHAVEN CELLARS Ternhaven's winery and tasting room, the only one located in Greenport, held its grand opening in May of 1998. But owner Harold Watts planted vines more than 15 years ago on his own five-acre Wesley Hall Vineyard in Cutchogue and produced the first commercial vintage in 1994. Termed a "boutiquette" winery by the owner, Ternhaven is dedicated to producing handcrafted Bordeaux-style red wines. The 1998 vintage is now available (no wine before its time!) and the '96s and '97s are in good supply. Ternhaven's Merlot and Claret from 1997 won medals in New York competition last fall. The three Ternhaven "standards" -- Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Claret D'Alvah -- have been joined by a new semi-sweet rosÉ called Harbor Rose that's well suited to summer sipping or al fresco dining. Smallness is part of the plan here, with a production goal of 800 to 1,000 cases a year. The other part is a dedication to excellence that will help the local industry continue its progress as a world-class wine region WÖLFFER SAGPOND The talent behind the critically acclaimed WÖLFFER Estate wines belongs to German winemaker, Roman Roth, whose experience blends wine cultures on three continents. In 1992 he became the first winemaker at what was then the mere startup of a winery, Sagpond Vineyards. Encompassing 55 acres today, WÖLFFER is an American winery with a decidedly European character, in its spirit and its wines. WÖLFFERwines embody the Hamptons Appellation as well as a classical style of winemaking, with a rich concentration of fruit and lively acidity born of the unique terroir similar to some conditions in Bordeaux. Wines are made for longevity with a depth that improves with age. Mr. Roth, vineyard manager Richard Pisacano and the rest of the staff regard themselves as the custodian of the vines, with hands-on care from planting to growing to the hand-picking of grapes. This approach can mean sacrificing up to 40% of the grapes during to concentrate plant energy and nutrition on the most promising fruit.
|
|
Copyright 2003, Times/Review Newspapers. All Rights Reserved. |